Chicken rice, central Vietnam's comfort food

Alongside cao lau and banh mi, com ga — chicken rice — is the dish people in Hoi An and Da Nang talk about most. It looks simple, and the ingredients are: rice, chicken, herbs. Getting it right is another matter.

The chicken

Good com ga starts with free-range "walking" chickens, whose firm meat holds its texture. The bird is poached until just cooked, then either shredded by hand and tossed with onion, Vietnamese coriander, pepper and a squeeze of lime, or sliced with the skin on.

The rice

The rice is the real test. It is cooked in the chicken stock, often with a little chicken fat and turmeric, so every grain comes out golden, separate and fragrant. Every cook has their own method, and locals will argue loyally for their favourite stall.

How it is served

A plate comes with a small bowl of broth, pickled papaya or onion, fresh herbs and a dish of chili sauce. Mix a little of everything into each bite.

You will find com ga all over Da Nang, but Hoi An's old town is where it is most famous — follow the queue of locals at lunchtime.