Overview
Hanoi has been Vietnam's capital, on and off, for over a thousand years, and it wears that history lightly. Ancient pagodas sit between French villas, and the Old Quarter's 36 guild streets still sell what their names promise — silk, tin, paper offerings — from narrow tube houses that open straight onto the pavement.
Life happens outside. Mornings start with tai chi and badminton around Hoan Kiem Lake; lunch is a bowl of bun cha on a plastic stool; evenings are for bia hoi on the street corner. The traffic is loud and constant, but the city rewards walking: give yourself time to get lost between the lake, the Old Quarter and the leafy French Quarter.
Hanoi has four real seasons. Autumn (October–November) is the favourite — dry, sunny and mild. Winter is cool and often grey, and summer is hot, humid and stormy.